Handmade Canvassed Jackets
True Bespoke suits were constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas underneath the wool fabric shell. This canvas holds the shape of the suit and keeps it from sagging or deforming, much like the foundation of a house keeps it upright. The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape, then the wool is stitched to the canvas. As you wear the jacket, the canvas conforms to your body’s shape, creating an excellent fit.
Hand-sewn buttonholes are a thing of beauty, and in the hands of a skilled tailor, can make a coat stand out amongst others. Properly sewn, they will add a level of detail that you can be proud of, yet at the same time will sit unassumingly against the background of the coat. It is one of the most important and luxurious components in bespoke garments.
Picked stitching refers to the small and unobtrusive stitching that runs along the lapel (the collar of a jacket), around the pocket flaps, and the breast pocket detail. It’s a classic feature of a high-end jacket and a clear indicator that you’re wearing a handmade garment. Also picked stitching can be used as an accent on your jacket, at your discretion.